Today’s major destination was Erculano (Herculaneum) a Roman town
devastated by the 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius. It was buried by 60 ft of
pyroclastic flow that hardened into tuff . It wasn’t until 1748 that it was
rediscovered by a guy digging a well. Following excavations, this accounts for
it appearing to be built in a quarry.
General
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| Vesuvius above |
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| In a deep dark alcove |
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| Hmmm, clouds at the summit |
Bricks and Walls
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| Nicely sculpted by weathering |
Frescoes, Mosaics,etc.
Houses
Pillars
Street
After lunch, partly on a spur-of-the-moment
whim and due to the proximity of Herculaneum (one of the communities arrayed
around the seaward base perimeter) to Vesuvius, we opted for an excursion up to
the crater rim. We had enquired about this when we arrived in Herculaneum and
were told it was €10 each. However this turned out to be €20 each because it
included entry to the Vesuvius National Park. From the large photo displayed in
their office I had inferred that there was a paved road to the top. Not quite.
There was a good road most of the way up, quite twisty of course. Eventually
the road terminated in a chaotic “car park” of volcanic ash, from there one had to
set out on foot on a path of volcanic ash. Seeing buses, mini-buses and cars
manoeuvring here was hilarious.
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| Head in the clouds |
The path was good as there were no steps.
The climb was a little over 30 minutes starting with a few switch-backs and
finishing with a single long upward ascent to the crater rim. For comfort, Joan
d I went at our own optimal speeds. Brian, you would be proud - my stent has
worked wonders because no-one overtook me on the way up. Along the way we
encountered the first of many instances of wisps of cloud drifting upward,
sometimes at surprising speed. It is particularly dramatic as it drifts over
the rim of the crater. Views downward were restricted with the cloud only
allowing occasional limited windows into the terrain below. A terrifically
invigorating experience by the dramatic hole of the crater. Joan tells me it
last erupted in 1944, when her father was there.
When we had arrived at Herculaneum in the
morning I had thought it might be best to go up the crater then because the
summit was clear, but seeing it under these conditions was far more atmospheric
and exhilarating. BTW, Vesuvius is a small volcano – “only” 1281 m.
Cloud wisps
Crater
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| Not cloud! |
Path
Rocks and Soil
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| Matching reds |
Selfy
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| Head in a hole |
View
Returning home on the Cirumvesuviana, we had
to stand for half the way because it was so crowded. We were infuriated because
a group of young German-speaking school boys occupied seats while many
grown-ups and seniors were left standing. Eventually Joan approached one and he
gave up his seat readily. Shortly after I approached another boy adjacent to her and
demanded “Warum steht hier Keiner auf?”
(why does no one here stand up?), whereupon one did stand up smartly. The woman
in the seat next to me then said something to the effect that one need only have asked, taking no account of the affront caused by children not voluntarily
relinquishing seats. I assumed she was an accompanying teacher – no credit to
her. It is unsettling to realise we have adopted the attitudes and values of
our parents’ generation.
We had a very nice dinner in a nearby trattoria serving tasty (read, full of
salt) tourist fare. Service was very friendly, and most of the patrons (like almost
all tourists here) were English speakers. We had ordered a bottle of wine Lacrime Cristi (Tears or Christ – sorry AUH),
but it was not available. We know however that it is available at the enoteca (bottle shop) so we’ll get it
another night.
Sorrento
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| From hotel roof |
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| From hotel roof |
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| From hotel roof |
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| Bay of Naples has the best clouds! |
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