Our last full touristic day in Rome, and we
survived it intact! Well almost – more on that shortly. We spent most of the
day in the Capitoline Museum and the surrounding area along the Via dei Fori Imperiali.
The Capitoline Museum is nothing short of
fantastic - one of the best anywhere.
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Marcus Aurelius |
It has a huge collection of heads, busts and statues. It also has an
art gallery but we skipped that in the interests of not inducing information
overload. One of its bonus features is that it affords the best view of the Roman Forum. But that’s not all – it, like Castel Sant’ Angelo yesterday, gives a
fabulous view of the city from its terrace, where we had a very nice lunch.
Within a 45° field of view one could count 11 church domes as well as other
monuments. It looks like the museum buildings were originally or at one time
papal palaces, that one of the popes gifted back to the Roman people in recognition
of their former greatness. While photographing the Forum from the Tabularium gallery overlooking it, I was
so absorbed in my task, that I tripped over a stone lighting fixture with sharp
edges,
grazing my shin. No great damage, fortunately. Nurse Joan did an expert
triage with hand cleaner, tissue and sock, with a proper job later back at
base.
One thing that kept astonishing us was the superb and fine detail in the garments on figures in friezes and statues. The Romans evidently had a lot of very good atrisans back then, certainly comparable to the Renaissance artists we know. Two of our favourite subjects are the emperors Hadrian and Caracalla, the latter particularly.
Forum mostly from Tabularium
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Arch of Titus behind |
Friezes
Giant figures
Heads and Busts
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Probably not a Roman of antiquity |
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Medusa |
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Caracalla - a most interesting face |
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One of the head rooms |
Jars
Misc
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Bath like the one used by Archimedes |
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Two of a kind |
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217 BC coin |
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Papal crests |
Statues
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Marcus Aurelius |
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Fabulous detail |
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Faithful companions into the afterlife |
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Hercules |
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Capitoline Venus - the model for many others |
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Now make sure you get me from the right angle! |
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Dionysus |
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Goose-wrangling child |
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Dying Gaul - note the non-Roman hair |
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Early version of the "The Kiss" |
Views from the Terrace
We started the ascent of Michelangelo’s
marble steps on the side of the Vittoriano,
but only went part of the way up. They, like steps in other grand structures,
have a good pitch, making them easier to climb.
Walking around the Vittoriano we spotted a free exhibition
inside of Saudi Arabian history, culture and landscapes.
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My favourite |
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The Elephant |
We walked partway up the monument inside
and then down again on the outside, with great views of an old church and Roman
era buildings on the other side of the Via
dei Fori Imperiali. One of these was the real Trajan’s Column, unlike the
other one I misidentified several days ago, and also last year. This column is
situated at one end of Trajan’s Forum. We had our last gelato sitting on bollards at the top of steps on the Via Grandnapoli.
On the way home, we got off one Metro stop
early and finished off our visit at Repubblica
to see what else but a church – the Chiesa
Santa Maria degli Angeli et dei Martiri that we had noticed last year but
had not had time to visit then. This is a wonderful church with an unusual
three-nave configuration, a meridian line – the longest we have seen, and
playing Gregorian chants that soothed us after a long day.
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Pendulum |
We are now celebrating Christine’s 50th
and our having completed another successful trip with a bottle of very nice prosecco (Italian fizz).
We had dinner at the Tripadvisor-recommended
Osteria Barberini where we had
excellent food, drink and service (in
stark contrast to the night before, a complete failure) – a great way to end our Italian adventure
for 2013.
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